Zion: Beyond the Postcards - A Veteran's View
Zion National Park. Even the name evokes a sense of grandeur, a promise of soaring sandstone cliffs and emerald pools. I’ve been visiting Zion for years, almost decades, and I'll admit, on this trip, a familiar twinge of…disappointment surfaced. The crowds, the lines, the feeling of being shuffled along with hundreds of others wielding selfie sticks – it can be a bit much. But beneath the surface, beyond the postcard-perfect vistas, lies a Zion that still whispers secrets to those willing to listen. This trip wasn't about conquering the most popular trail, it was about reconnecting with the soul of Zion, rediscovering its hidden corners and quiet moments. And for a veteran traveler like me, that's where the real adventure begins. Ready to get off the beaten path?
From Salt Lake City to Hoodoo Heaven: Goblin Valley State Park
The drive from Salt Lake City to Springdale is scenic enough, but I decided to add a little spice to the journey with a detour to Goblin Valley State Park. Trust me, it’s worth the extra miles. This place is just…weird. Thousands of hoodoos, mushroom-shaped rock formations, litter the valley floor, creating an eerie, otherworldly landscape.
I arrived in the late afternoon, which was perfect. The low-angled sunlight cast long, dramatic shadows, turning the already bizarre formations into something truly surreal. Wandering among the goblins, I felt a sense of playful solitude, a million miles away from the bustling crowds I knew awaited me in Zion. It’s a great place to take your mind off the stress that life can bring, and truly enjoy an eerie but serene landscape.
Where to Stay: Cable Mountain Lodge
After the goblin rendezvous, it was time to head to Springdale, the gateway town to Zion. Forget the generic chain hotels, I opted for a stay at the Cable Mountain Lodge. This place is a gem, and it's my top recommendation for veterans who value comfort and proximity to the park. The real selling point? The private balcony overlooking the Virgin River.
Falling asleep to the sound of the river was incredibly soothing, a natural white noise that erased the day’s travel. And waking up to the early morning light hitting the canyon walls? Unforgettable. The location is great too, allowing easy access to all the Zion canyon shuttle stops. Plus, the rooms are equipped with everything a weary traveler needs, and they also are reasonably accessible for disabled veterans. Make sure to book in advance, especially during peak season.
Unique Hiking Experience: Hidden Canyon Trail
Okay, let’s talk hiking. Forget the Narrows for now. It’s time to venture up the Hidden Canyon Trail. While not as well-known, it offers a unique and thrilling experience. The trail starts with a steep climb, quickly ascending into the canyon. But the real fun begins when you reach the sections with chains bolted into the cliff face.
These chains are essential for navigating the exposed sections, where a misstep could lead to a serious fall. It's exhilarating, a true test of nerve. The views from these precarious perches are incredible, offering a perspective deep into the main canyon that most visitors completely miss. As you venture further into the slot canyon, the play of light and shadow becomes mesmerizing, creating an intimate and almost spiritual atmosphere. Be aware, that it is not advised to hike this trail during or directly after a rainstorm. Flash floods are not uncommon and are extremely dangerous. The Hidden Canyon Trail can present challenges, especially for seniors or those with mobility issues. Make sure to assess your fitness level honestly before attempting this hike.
Observation Point: A Memory From Before
I’m going to be honest, the current permit system for Observation Point makes me a bit nostalgic. I remember hiking it years ago, before the crowds and the regulations. The grueling switchbacks, the relentless sun, the feeling of your lungs burning with every step – it was tough, no doubt. But the reward…the view of Angels Landing from afar, spread out beneath you, was simply breathtaking. There was a sense of accomplishment, of having earned that panorama. And, yes, maybe a little smugness knowing I experienced it before it became so controlled. While the memories are incredible, I understand that permits are required for a reason: to manage crowds and protect the fragile environment.
Beyond Fine Dining: Red Rock Grill's Deep Fried Oreos
Let's be real, sometimes the best travel experiences aren't about Michelin-starred restaurants or fancy wine pairings. Sometimes, it's about indulging in something utterly, unapologetically trashy. And that's exactly what I did at the Zion Lodge's Red Rock Grill. Forget the healthy options, I went straight for the Deep Fried Oreos.
Sitting on the patio, watching the sunset paint the surrounding cliffs in hues of gold and crimson, I devoured those greasy, sugary delights. The contrast between the crisp desert air and the warm, gooey sweetness was perfect. It was a simple pleasure, a moment of pure, unadulterated indulgence. Don't judge me.
Stargazing from Observation Point (Before the World Changed)
I’m not going to recommend you break any rules, so I won’t suggest you try sneaking up to Observation Point at night now that permits are required. But I will share a memory, a glimpse into what it was like to experience Zion's night sky before the world got so…regulated. After that brutal day hike I reminisced about earlier, I stayed on Observation Point after sunset.
The darkness was intense, a profound blackness that swallowed everything whole. And then, the stars. An overwhelming, uncountable number of stars, blazing with a brilliance that's impossible to describe. Without any light pollution, the Milky Way stretched across the sky like a river of diamonds. I felt utterly insignificant, a tiny speck of dust under the vast, indifferent gaze of the cosmos. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional whisper of the wind. It was a humbling, unforgettable experience, one that reminded me of the true power and beauty of nature.
Exploring Gold Butte National Monument
On the way out of the area, heading towards the glittering chaos of Las Vegas, I took another detour, this time to Gold Butte National Monument. This place is the definition of "off the beaten path."
Gold Butte is a hidden gem that is truly remote and forgotten. I drove for miles on unpaved roads, surrounded by harsh, unforgiving desert. The landscape is stark and beautiful, dotted with Joshua trees and bizarre rock formations. But the real treasures of Gold Butte are the ancient petroglyphs etched into the rocks. These enigmatic symbols, left by native peoples centuries ago, depict animals, humans, and abstract designs.
Standing before these ancient carvings, I felt a connection to the past, a sense of wonder at the stories they might tell. What did these symbols mean? What were the lives of the people who created them? The harsh sunlight beat down on me, and the feeling of isolation was palpable. It was a reminder that even in our modern, interconnected world, there are still places where you can truly get away from it all.
Zion Reconnected
Zion National Park is a place of enduring beauty, a landscape that has the power to inspire and awe. Yes, the crowds can be frustrating, and the regulations can feel restrictive. But by venturing beyond the postcards, by seeking out the hidden corners and quiet moments, you can still find the soul of Zion. You can reconnect with nature, challenge yourself physically, and discover a sense of peace and solitude. And for a veteran traveler like me, that's what it's all about. So, what are you waiting for? Time to start planning your own adventure!