Vanuatu on a Shoestring: Volcanoes, Wrecks, and Kastom Culture
Hey everyone, we're Sarah and Ben! We ditch the resorts for local experiences and street food. We're all about seeing the world on a budget, proving you don't need to break the bank to have incredible adventures. Next up? The untouched paradise of Vanuatu! We spent three weeks backpacking through this amazing island nation, armed with a daily budget of about $50 USD each. Get ready for volcanoes, shipwrecks, and a deep dive into Kastom culture!
Part 1: Tanna Island - Fire in the Sky
Landing on Tanna felt like stepping onto another planet. The air hung thick with the scent of sulfur, and the landscape was dominated by the imposing silhouette of Mount Yasur, an active volcano. We could already feel the adventure brewing! After a bit of haggling at the airport (budget travel, remember?), we crammed into the back of a battered 4x4 for a bumpy ride through dense, lush jungle. Our destination? Friendly Bungalows, our humble abode for the next few nights, costing us a sweet $20 a night. Basic, yes, but perfect for our needs and close to the main attraction.
Witnessing the Majesty of Mount Yasur
The main reason we came to Tanna was, of course, Mount Yasur. As the sun began to dip below the horizon, casting the pre-eruption sky in hues of blood orange, we started our ascent. The anticipation was palpable. This wasn't just sightseeing; this was a primal experience.
As we got closer, the sensory overload began. The dusky light transformed the volcano, creating dramatic silhouettes of ash plumes against the twilight sky. We were finally at the rim, peering into the fiery glow of the caldera. Incandescent lava bombs arced through the air like something straight out of Mordor! We could feel the heat searing our faces even from 100m away! The ground vibrated beneath our feet with each eruption. The roar and rumble were constant, punctuated by explosive bursts that made us jump every time. The acrid smell of sulfur filled the air, a constant reminder of the raw power beneath us.
We tried our best to capture the spectacle with our GoPro, shooting wide-angle to try and catch everything in frame. It was a real struggle to get clear photos in the low light! The whole experience was a mixture of awe, excitement, and a healthy dose of fear. But mostly, it was pure, unadulterated joy. "Namel blong mi i glad tumas!" My soul is very happy!
Immersing in Kastom Culture at Yakel Village
The next day, we traded fire for tradition with a visit to Yakel Village, a Kastom village that has retained its traditional way of life. This was a completely different, but equally powerful, experience. We were welcomed with open arms and invited to witness a traditional Nakamal ceremony.
The preparation of Kava was fascinating, a process steeped in ritual and respect. The men gathered, pounding the Kava root and mixing it with water. As the sun set, the storytelling began, accompanied by rhythmic dancing and chanting. The intricate patterns painted on the men's faces and bodies with natural pigments were mesmerizing. Their traditional clothing (or lack thereof!) and adornments spoke volumes about their connection to nature. They even showed us various plants and explained their medicinal uses.
This experience made us feel deeply connected to the local culture, a world away from the tourist traps. It was a privilege to witness such a vibrant and enduring tradition.
Tanna's Culinary Delight: Lap Lap
Of course, no visit to Tanna is complete without trying Lap Lap, a traditional dish cooked in an earth oven. The process is fascinating – root vegetables like taro and yam are grated, mixed with coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaves, and then cooked in a pit filled with hot stones. The result is a smoky, flavorful dish that's both filling and delicious. It's a true taste of Tanna!
Budget Tip:
Skip the organized tours to the volcano and negotiate a ride with a local driver for a fraction of the price. Always haggle respectfully! You can easily save $50-$100 this way.

Part 2: Espiritu Santo - Wrecks and Paradise
After the fiery intensity of Tanna, Espiritu Santo was a welcome change of pace. Gone were the volcanic landscapes; in their place, calm beaches, crystal-clear water, and a more relaxed atmosphere.
Diving the SS President Coolidge: A Journey Through History
Espiritu Santo is a diver's paradise, and the jewel in its crown is the SS President Coolidge, a luxury liner turned troop carrier that sank during World War II. This wasn't just diving; it was exploring a piece of history.
The sheer scale of the wreck is incredible. The bow is at 21 meters, but you can go as deep as 70 meters to see the engine room. Inside, we swam through corridors filled with artifacts: Jeeps, gas masks, chandeliers, and even personal belongings of the soldiers who were onboard. Everything was encrusted with coral, adding another layer of beauty and mystery. We swam with barracuda, turtles, and reef sharks inside the wreck. The visibility was amazing, and the sunlight filtered through the water, creating an ethereal glow around the wreck.
Diving in such an enclosed space was challenging, and the currents near the entry points were strong. But the feeling of exploring a piece of history, and the respect for the lives lost, made it an unforgettable experience.
The Azure Beauty of Matevulu Blue Hole
Away from the coast, Espiritu Santo has hidden gems. Matevulu Blue Hole is one of these. Swimming in this natural wonder was like entering another world. The water was an unreal turquoise, crystal-clear and incredibly refreshing. The surrounding lush vegetation, with hanging vines and sunlight dappling through the leaves, created a magical atmosphere. Using a polarizing filter on our DSLR was essential to cut the glare and capture the vibrant blues.
Champagne Beach: Sparkling Sands and Sunset Hues
No trip to Espiritu Santo is complete without a visit to Champagne Beach. The white sand was soft and inviting, and the water was, of course, crystal-clear. The unique "champagne bubbles" caused by geothermal activity added a touch of whimsy. We stayed until sunset, watching the vibrant colors of the sky reflect off the ocean. The lighting was perfect, and we captured some stunning photos.
"Tank yu tumas!" Thank you very much!
Budget Tip:
Eat at local Nakamals (food stalls) for cheap and delicious meals. You can get a huge plate of delicious local food for just a few dollars. Avoid the tourist restaurants if you're on a budget!
Conclusion: An Untouched Paradise
Our three weeks in Vanuatu were an incredible adventure. From the fiery spectacle of Mount Yasur to the historical depths of the SS President Coolidge, and the vibrant Kastom culture, Vanuatu offered us a unique and unforgettable experience. And we did it all on a shoestring budget!
Sure, there were challenges. The Wi-Fi was often limited, and the accommodations were basic. But these things only added to the authenticity and enriched our experience. Vanuatu is an untouched paradise, a place where you can truly connect with nature and culture. We urge you to visit before it becomes overrun with tourists.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in fiery hues, we captured one last image. Shot at 50mm and f/2.8 to create a shallow depth of field, blurring the foreground and emphasizing the vibrant colors of the horizon, it perfectly encapsulates the magic of Vanuatu. Go see it for yourself!