Lençóis Maranhenses: A Botanist's Astrophotography Journey Through Brazil's Dune Lakes

The sheer, overwhelming whiteness hit me first, an endless expanse of dunes sculpted by the wind, meeting the electric blue of the lagoons. It was like stepping onto an otherworldly canvas, a place where the familiar rules of landscape photography, and indeed, of life itself, seemed to bend. As a botanist with a passion for astrophotography, I knew Lençóis Maranhenses National Park in Brazil held a unique story waiting to be told, a story woven with resilient flora, starlit skies, and the delicate balance of a fragile ecosystem. This journey was more than just a trip; it was an exploration into the heart of an environment unlike any other.

Exploring the Shifting Sands and Hidden Life of Lençóis Maranhenses

Underfoot, the sand shifted from firm and almost damp near the lagoons to a soft, yielding powder higher up the dunes. It was the rainy season, when the lagoons are at their fullest, transforming the park into a breathtaking spectacle. But beyond the visual grandeur, I was on a mission to document the unique restinga ecosystem, the specialized plant life that ekes out an existence in this harsh, saline environment.

Unveiling the Secrets of the Restinga Ecosystem

My focus was on capturing the intricate details of plants like Bulbostylis maritima and Blutaparon portulacoides. These aren't your typical desert plants; they're adapted to the periodic inundation of freshwater, yet tolerant to high salt concentrations. Using macro photography, I wanted to showcase their tenacity, the small adaptations that allow them to thrive where few others can.

I was fortunate to collaborate with João, a local guide whose knowledge of the restinga ecosystem was extensive. He shared the traditional uses of these plants, from medicinal applications to crafting materials, further deepening my understanding and appreciation for their importance to the local communities. Learning about the local uses of plants added another layer of understanding, and really allowed me to appreciate the ecosystem from a different lens.

A Taste of Lençóis: Local Cuisine in Barreirinhas

No trip is complete without immersing oneself in the local culture, and that includes the cuisine. In Barreirinhas, the gateway town to Lençóis Maranhenses, I savored Baião de Dois from a street vendor. The creamy texture of the beans mingled with the savory carne de sol (sun-dried meat) and the slight tang of queijo coalho (a type of cheese) was a delight.

I also discovered Suco de Buriti, a juice made from the fruit of the Buriti palm, easily found in local markets and restaurants. Its taste is unique – slightly tart with an earthy flavor – a refreshing and nutritious drink perfect for the tropical climate.

Astrophotography Amidst the Dunes: Chasing the Milky Way

One of my primary goals was to capture the Milky Way arching over the lagoons. However, light pollution from nearby towns posed a significant challenge. To overcome this, I employed long exposure techniques with a star tracker during the new moon, when the skies were darkest. Optimal viewing times are typically between July and September, when the Milky Way core is most visible in the Southern Hemisphere.

Mastering Long Exposure and Time-Lapse Photography

My astrophotography setup involved a sturdy tripod, a wide-angle lens with a low aperture (f/2.8), and a full-frame camera capable of handling high ISO settings. I used a star tracker to compensate for the Earth’s rotation, allowing for longer exposures without star trails.

I also embarked on a time-lapse project to capture the movement of dune shadows throughout the day. Using an intervalometer to automatically trigger the camera every few minutes, I documented the changing light and shadows, creating a visual narrative of the landscape's dynamic nature.

Recommended Activities: Immersing Yourself in Lençóis Maranhenses

For those planning a trip to Lençóis Maranhenses, here are some activities I highly recommend:

• Guided Walking Tours: Led by local guides like João, these tours offer invaluable insights into the restinga ecosystem, its flora, and the traditional uses of these plants.
• Sandboarding: Experience the thrill of sandboarding down the steeper dunes near Lagoa Azul. It's an exhilarating way to appreciate the landscape from a different perspective.
• Stargazing Workshops: Offered in Atins, these workshops cater to both beginners and experienced astrophotographers, providing guidance on capturing the night sky in this unique environment.

The Fragility of Paradise: Responsible Tourism and Conservation

Lençóis Maranhenses is a fragile ecosystem, vulnerable to the impacts of climate change and unsustainable tourism practices. It's crucial that we approach this unique landscape with respect and a commitment to responsible travel. Supporting local businesses that prioritize conservation, minimizing our environmental footprint, and educating ourselves about the delicate balance of the restinga ecosystem are essential steps. By doing so, we can help protect this remarkable place and its unique flora for future generations to marvel at. It's an awe-inspiring reminder of the beauty of nature and how imperative it is that it's preserved.