Healing Sands: Camping, Horses, and New Beginnings on Assateague Island

Assateague Island. The name conjures images of wild horses galloping along windswept beaches, the salty air stinging your face, and the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean stretching as far as the eye can see. For me, Mark, it was more than just a vacation destination; it was a chance to reconnect with my 10-year-old daughter, Lily, after a year of heartache. Losing my wife had been devastating, and I knew Lily felt it just as deeply. I was hoping the open space and new adventures could help us both heal. Our first camping trip since… well, since everything changed, was a leap of faith. And, to be honest, it started with a little sand… and a lot of laughter. We chose Toms Cove Campground (GPS: 38.0314° N, 75.2405° W) as our basecamp. This blog post will share our experiences and help you plan your family's trip to this magical place.

The Road to Assateague and Tent-Pitching Tribulations

The drive to Assateague was scenic, a welcome change from our usual routine. To avoid long lines at the entrance, I highly recommend pre-paying your entrance fee online through the National Park Service website. Trust me; it's worth it. Once we arrived at Toms Cove Campground, the real fun began: setting up our tent. Now, I'm no stranger to camping, but wrestling with a Kodiak Canvas Flex-Bow tent on soft sand is a whole new level of challenge.

Standard tent stakes are useless here; you absolutely need sand stakes. Even with those, it was a struggle. Sand seemed to defy gravity, infiltrating every nook and cranny of the tent. I was getting frustrated, muttering about the laws of physics, while Lily was giggling uncontrollably as she tried (unsuccessfully) to brush the sand away. Her laughter, a sound I hadn’t heard enough of lately, reminded me so much of her mother. In that moment, I realized this trip was already a success, regardless of how much sand we tracked in. These funny moments were just what we needed.

Wild Horses and Strict Food Storage

Assateague Island is famous for its wild horses, descendants of domesticated animals that adapted to the island environment. But with these majestic creatures comes responsibility. The park has very strict food storage rules, primarily to protect the horses. Leaving food unattended can result in hefty fines, and, more importantly, it can harm the horses if they ingest human food.

We were required to use a bear canister – yes, even though bears aren't the main concern. This is for the horses! I explained to Lily the importance of keeping our food properly stored. I even emphasized the potential consequences for the horses. We almost had a close call when Lily nearly forgot her bag of gummy bears in her backpack! A quick reminder of the fines and how important it was to protect the horses quickly reminded her to be careful and store the snack correctly.

Campground Comforts: Bathhouses and Showers

After wrestling with the tent and securing our food, we were ready to appreciate the campground amenities. The bathhouses at Toms Cove are well-maintained, with frequent cleaning schedules. Best of all, there were hot water showers! After a day on the beach, that hot shower was pure bliss for me. Lily, on the other hand, still complained about the sand sticking to her, even after scrubbing with soap. "It's everywhere, Dad!" she exclaimed, dramatically.

Beach Bliss: Swimming, Sandcastles, and Seashells

Assateague's beaches are stunning. We spent hours swimming in the ocean, building a magnificent sandcastle (more on that later!), and searching for seashells. We found some beautiful whelks and clams – treasures Lily carefully added to her collection. I even tried my hand at surf fishing. Before you cast a line, make sure you have a valid Maryland or Virginia fishing license, depending on which part of the island you're fishing on. Regulations vary, so check the Maryland Department of Natural Resources website or the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources website for details.

Wild Horse Encounters: Respecting the Island's Inhabitants

One of the highlights of our trip was, of course, spotting the wild horses. We saw them grazing near the marshlands, their coats gleaming in the sun. It was important to maintain a safe distance (at least 25 feet) and absolutely never feed them. These are wild animals, and feeding them can disrupt their natural behavior and make them dependent on humans.

Lily was mesmerized, her eyes wide with wonder. I felt a pang of sadness, knowing her mother would have loved to see this. I wanted to capture the moment, to take the perfect picture, but I also knew I needed to be present, to experience it with Lily. I took a few quick snapshots, then put my phone away and just watched, feeling the sun on my face and the joy in my daughter's eyes. This was why we were here.

Exploring Sinepuxent Bay: Kayaks, Dolphins, and Waterfowl

For a change of pace, I recommend renting kayaks or paddleboards from Assateague Outfitters and exploring the Sinepuxent Bay. We didn't get a chance to do this, but other families were and seemed to be having the time of their lives! You might even spot dolphins or a variety of waterfowl. I would love to come back and try kayaking or paddleboarding during our next visit.

Becoming a Junior Ranger: Learning and Earning a Badge

The Junior Ranger program is a fantastic way to engage kids and teach them about the park's natural and cultural resources. Lily was excited to complete her booklet, learning about the wild horses, the ecosystem, and the importance of conservation. She proudly recited facts to me as we hiked the trails! And the best part? She earned her official Junior Ranger badge! It was a fun and educational experience that kept her engaged throughout the trip. Visit the Toms Cove Visitor Center to learn more about the Junior Ranger program, NPS Junior Ranger Program.

Sandcastle Fail: A Lesson in Letting Go

Remember that magnificent sandcastle I mentioned earlier? We spent hours building it, meticulously crafting towers, moats, and seashell decorations. Lily painstakingly placed a perfect whelk shell on top of the highest tower. We stood back, admiring our creation, feeling proud of our teamwork. Then, a rogue wave crashed onto the shore, completely engulfing and destroying our sandcastle in a matter of seconds.

Lily's initial reaction was shock, followed by a burst of laughter. I looked surprised, a bit disappointed, but quickly joined in the laughter, embracing her. In that moment, I realized the sandcastle wasn't the point. The point was the time we spent building it together, the shared effort, and the laughter that followed the destruction. It was a lesson in letting go, in accepting the impermanence of things, and in finding joy in the present moment. We talked about it a lot afterward.

Essential Gear for Assateague Camping

Here's a list of essential gear for camping on Assateague Island:

• Kodiak Canvas Flex-Bow tent: Durable and spacious, but be prepared for the sand!
• Sand stakes: Absolutely essential for securing your tent in the sand.
• Bear canister: Required for food storage to protect the wild horses.
• Sunscreen (high SPF): The sun is intense on the island.
• Insect repellent (for mosquitoes and ticks): Especially important during the warmer months.

Healing on the Sands

Assateague Island was more than just a camping trip; it was a journey of healing and reconnection for Lily and me. The challenges we faced, from setting up the tent to dealing with the sand, brought us closer together. Lily's laughter, echoing her mother's, filled my heart with a mixture of joy and sadness.

The shared experiences, the stunning scenery, and the wild beauty of Assateague helped us create new memories and find a path forward. The healing power of nature is undeniable. Cherish your time with family, embrace the challenges, and find joy in the simple moments. And don't forget the sand stakes!