Guyana: Even I Was Blown Away by Kaieteur Falls
Right, let's get one thing straight. I’m Marcus Cole. I’m 45, a birdwatcher, and a nature photographer from London. I’ve seen a fair few places in my time, and, if I’m honest, I’ve become a bit… cynical. Tourist traps? Overhyped "natural wonders"? Been there, photographed that, bought the overpriced t-shirt. So, when I booked a 5-day Kaieteur Falls Trek in Guyana, let’s just say my expectations were… measured. I envisioned crowds, carefully curated "wilderness" experiences, and disappointment. I prepared myself for the worst - a feeling further fueled by my initial reluctance to try any Guyanese food. But Guyana, and especially Kaieteur Falls, well, it absolutely poleaxed my skepticism.
Booking My Guyana Birdwatching Tours with Wilderness Explorers
The catalyst for this adventure was the Guianan Cock-of-the-rock. I’d been chasing photos of that vibrant orange plumage for years. After doing a bit of research, I came across Wilderness Explorers Guyana. After contacting Claire Singh at Wilderness Explorers, I was set to go. I opted for a trek specifically timed to coincide with the Cock-of-the-rock’s nesting season, and, more importantly, one that emphasized ecotourism in Guyana and supporting local communities, which ultimately led to booking it. The trip was supposed to be about the birds, the rainforest... turns out it was about so much more.
Desmond: My Unlikely Guide to the Guiana Shield Rainforest
Our guide was Desmond, an Indigenous man from the Patamona tribe. Initially, I confess, I was a bit dismissive. Another "local guide" trotting out well-worn platitudes about nature? How wrong I was. Desmond knew the rainforest. He could track animals by the faintest of prints, identify medicinal plants that would probably be dismissed as weeds by most of us, and navigate through the thickest jungle with an uncanny sense of direction.
The Birdwatching Bonanza (and Photographic Challenges)
Okay, let's talk birds. The Guianan Cock-of-the-rock did not disappoint. Imagine a flamboyant orange bird, strutting its stuff in a lek, trying to impress the ladies. The males put on a show – a flurry of wings and a cacophony of strange calls. Photographing them, however, was another story. The low light under the forest canopy, the oppressive humidity… it was a technical nightmare. I was using my trusty Canon EOS 5D Mark IV with a Canon EF 400mm f/2.8L IS III USM lens and a 1.4x extender, which usually does the trick. I had rain covers and silica gel packs coming out of my ears, all to protect my gear.
Then there was the Crimson Fruitcrow. You don't see it so much as hear it. That booming call reverberates through the trees, announcing its presence long before you catch a glimpse of its dark plumage. And the White-chinned Sapphire hummingbird? A tiny jewel, flitting from flower to flower, its iridescent colors shimmering in the dappled sunlight. Capturing that was like trying to photograph a bolt of lightning.
And, of course, disaster struck. A sudden downpour, the kind that turns the rainforest floor into a muddy soup, coated my lens in thick, gritty sludge. Visions of ruined shots flashed before my eyes. But, after a frantic cleaning session, I managed to salvage the situation. And then it happened. A scarlet macaw, vibrant against the green, landed on a branch, posing perfectly. Click. I knew, instantly, I’d captured something special – a shot I think might be award-worthy.
Overcoming Culinary Skepticism: A Guyanese Food Adventure
Now, I'm not exactly known for my adventurous palate. The prospect of trying Guyanese cuisine filled me with dread. Pepperpot? Cook-up rice? Sounded… alarming. But, again, Guyana surprised me. The pepperpot, a rich, stewed meat dish infused with cassareep (a sauce made from cassava), was surprisingly flavorful. And the cook-up rice, a hearty combination of rice, beans, meat, and vegetables, was incredibly satisfying. Washed down with a cold Banks beer? Bliss. I even tried cassava bread – bland on its own, but remarkably versatile. Turns out, even my taste buds were ready for an adventure.
Kaieteur Falls: A Sensory Overload
Then there's Kaieteur Falls itself. Forget everything you think you know about waterfalls. This is something else entirely. The sheer scale of the place is staggering. Standing at the edge, looking down at the water plunging into the gorge below, you feel utterly insignificant.
But it's not just the size; it's the sounds, the smells, the sheer energy of the place. The constant hum of insects, the earthy scent of damp vegetation, the roar of the water… it’s a sensory overload.
I even braved a swim in the pools above the falls. The water was cool and refreshing, and the feeling of the water rushing past you before it takes its immense plunge is, well, exhilarating is far too weak a word.
The Guiana Shield: A Biodiversity Hotspot
The journey to Kaieteur Falls revealed the stunning biodiversity of the Guiana Shield. We saw Victoria amazonica, the giant water lilies with pads so large you could theoretically stand on them (although I wouldn't recommend it). We traversed moriche palm swamps, with their stilt-like roots creating an otherworldly landscape. This is a place teeming with life, a vibrant, pulsating ecosystem that needs protecting.
Rewa Eco-Lodge: Sustainable Tourism in Action
Our base near Kaieteur was the Rewa Eco-Lodge, and this played a significant role in changing my perspective on tourism. It wasn't just some faceless resort; it was a community-run operation deeply committed to conservation. Seeing the pride Desmond and the other members of the Patamona tribe took in their work, knowing that tourism dollars were directly benefiting their community, that meant something. The lodge prioritizes minimal environmental impact. The food was locally sourced and delicious, and the accommodations were comfortable without being extravagant. It was sustainable tourism in action, proving that it is possible to travel responsibly.
What is the best time to visit Kaieteur Falls? The dry seasons (February-April and September-November) generally offer the best conditions for trekking and photography, with less rain and clearer skies.
Where can I stay near Kaieteur Falls? Rewa Eco-Lodge is one of the best options, offering comfortable accommodation, delicious local cuisine, and opportunities to learn about Patamona culture.
Ecotourism in Guyana: Supporting the Patamona Community
It was immensely encouraging to see the Rewa Eco-Lodge and Wilderness Explorers collaborating to preserve the natural wonders and ecosystems of Guyana while directly supporting the livelihoods of the Patamona people. Knowing that my travels directly contributed to their wellbeing made the experience significantly more rewarding. That's how ecotourism benefits the Patamona community.
How to book a tour to Kaieteur Falls? You can book tours directly through Wilderness Explorers Guyana. Their website offers a range of options, from day trips to multi-day treks.
Why is Kaieteur Falls so special? Kaieteur Falls is special due to its immense size (one of the world's largest single-drop waterfalls), its pristine rainforest environment, and its unique biodiversity.
Guyana: I'll Be Back
So, there you have it. Guyana. It exceeded all my expectations. It challenged my cynicism. It reminded me of the power and beauty of the natural world, and the importance of protecting it. I went for the birds, but I came away with so much more. I've travelled the world in the name of nature and wildlife, and Guyana truly surprised me. I'll definitely be booking with Wilderness Explorers Guyana again. Guyana, I’ll be back.