Guilin: A Journey of Solace and Ancient Echoes for a Solo Senior Traveler
The air hung thick and humid as I stepped off the plane in Guilin. After a long flight from Vancouver, the modern airport was a stark contrast to the images of serene landscapes that had filled my imagination. Towering glass and steel structures dominated the horizon, reflecting the hazy afternoon sun. It felt... alien. A world away from the cozy familiarity of my life back home, and even further from the peaceful retreat I desperately sought after losing my beloved David. I was Eleanor Vance, 68-year-old retired architect, and I was hoping this solo trip to Guilin, China would offer some peace. This Guilin travel journey was my quest.
The modern cityscape of Guilin reflects the ancient landscape in its glass facade, highlighting the contrasting elements of this solo adventure.
Mid-Autumn Festival on the Li River
My visit coincided with the Mid-Autumn Festival, a celebration of harvest and family. As dusk settled, I ventured down to the Li River, and the scene that unfolded was breathtaking. The riverbanks were ablaze with lanterns of all shapes and sizes, their warm glow dancing on the water. Intricate paper dragons coiled around lamp posts, and enormous lotus flowers bobbed gently on the current, each illuminated from within. The traditional architecture used in the lantern designs—the curved eaves, the delicate lattice work—resonated deeply with me, reminding me of the temples and gardens I had studied in my youth.
Families strolled along the river, laughing and sharing mooncakes, those round pastries filled with sweet and savory fillings. I bought one from a street vendor – lotus seed paste with a salted egg yolk in the center. The texture was smooth and slightly chewy, the taste a delightful mix of sweet and salty. Watching the families, the feeling of solitude was a palpable ache. I knew David would have loved this. I couldn’t help but think of Chang'e, the moon goddess of Chinese legend, forever separated from her husband, living eternally on the moon. The story, though beautiful, felt poignant, mirroring my own feelings of loss and longing. Experiencing the Mid-Autumn Festival in Guilin was deeply moving, but it also amplified my loneliness.
A Taste of Guangxi: Learning to Cook Guilin Rice Noodles
The next day, I decided to immerse myself further in the local culture by taking a Guangxi cuisine cooking class. I was particularly interested in learning about Guilin rice noodles, or mifen. The chef, a jovial woman named Mei, greeted me warmly and led me to a bustling kitchen filled with fragrant aromas.
Mei explained that Guilin rice noodles are a staple food in the region, typically served in a rich broth with various toppings. She then introduced the ingredients, including the somewhat controversial – at least to my Western sensibilities – addition of braised horse meat. Apparently, the tradition of using horse meat in Guilin rice noodles dates back centuries, possibly originating from the need to utilize all available resources. While not as common today due to ethical and availability concerns, it remains a part of the local culinary heritage. The use of horse meat in Guilin is considered by some to be essential to the dish’s authentic flavour. I opted out of tasting the horse meat, but I carefully observed Mei as she prepared it. The meat was marinated in a complex blend of spices, then braised slowly until tender and infused with flavor. The aroma alone was intoxicating.
I did, however, eagerly participate in making the Li River shrimp. This involved quickly stir-frying fresh, tiny shrimp from the river with ginger, garlic, and a touch of soy sauce. The result was incredibly delicate and flavorful, a testament to the freshness of the ingredients. I learned to make the noodles themselves, pressing the dough through a special sieve to create the long, thin strands. It was a messy but satisfying process. Trying authentic Guangxi cuisine in Guilin and learning to cook it myself was a wonderful experience.
In Search of Peace: A Calligraphy Workshop
Seeking a more introspective activity, I signed up for a calligraphy workshop. I had always admired the elegance and simplicity of Chinese characters, and I hoped that learning to write them would offer a moment of quiet contemplation.
The instructor, a gentle man with ink-stained fingers, guided us through the basic strokes. I chose to attempt the character for ‘peace’ (安), a word that resonated deeply with my current state of mind. It looked so simple, just a few elegant lines, but I quickly discovered that it required a level of precision and control that I struggled to achieve. My first few attempts were clumsy and awkward, the ink bleeding across the page. But with each try, I felt myself becoming more focused, more present. Finally, after much effort, I managed to create a version that I considered passable. It wasn't perfect, but it was mine. Holding that brush and finding my peace on paper was a big step on my path to recovery. A Guilin calligraphy experience can be incredibly meditative.
Eleanor proudly displays her attempt at writing the Chinese character for 'peace', reflecting her personal journey and search for inner tranquility.
Above the Clouds: Hiking Yao Mountain
Eager to escape the city, I decided to hike up Yao Mountain. The mountain offered panoramic views of the karst mountains and the patchwork of rice paddies below. I opted for the cable car, wanting to conserve my energy. As I ascended, the mists swirled around the peaks, creating a surreal and ethereal landscape. The hiking Yao Mountain Guilin experience was stunning, even from the cable car. Sunlight streamed through the clouds, casting dramatic shadows on the mountainsides. The experience was truly breathtaking, and it was easy to see why the landscape inspires so many artists. The air was crisp and clean, and I felt a sense of peace wash over me. I shared the cable car with a young couple from Shanghai, who were fascinated by my solo journey. We exchanged stories and laughter, a brief but welcome connection.
Dragon's Backbone: The Longsheng Rice Terraces
My final destination was the Longsheng Rice Terraces, also known as the Dragon's Backbone. These terraced fields, carved into the mountainsides by the local Zhuang minority people, are a testament to human ingenuity and a deep connection to the land. The Zhuang people have inhabited this area for centuries, developing a unique culture and way of life centered around rice cultivation. Their history is etched into the landscape itself, in the intricate patterns of the terraces that cascade down the slopes.
As I walked along the pathways, the terraces stretched before me like the scales of a giant dragon, shimmering in the sunlight. The Longsheng Rice Terraces hiking experience was humbling and awe-inspiring. The sheer scale of the terraces, the precision of their construction, and the harmony between nature and human endeavor were simply breathtaking. I stopped at a local teahouse and sampled Osmanthus tea, its delicate aroma and flavor adding to the tranquility of the moment.
The Longsheng Rice Terraces, also known as the Dragon's Backbone, showcase the intricate design and cultural significance of the Zhuang minority people, alongside a traditional teahouse.
Finding Closure
My trip to Guilin was a journey of contrasts: modern cityscapes juxtaposed with ancient landscapes, moments of profound joy intertwined with the persistent ache of loss. There were moments of connection, like sharing laughter with strangers on Yao Mountain, and moments of solitude, like watching the moon rise over the Li River. I came seeking solace and inspiration, and I found both in the beauty of the natural world and the resilience of the human spirit. While the loneliness lingered, as I tasted the Osmanthus tea and gazed over the terraces, I also felt a sense of closure. This solo travel adventure in Guilin, China helped me begin the long healing process, reaffirming my appreciation for life, even in the face of sorrow. I hope that if you're considering solo travel in Guilin China, my story gives you courage to make the journey.