Cinque Terre: Finding Myself (and Inspiration) on the Italian Coast

Divorce. The word still felt foreign on my tongue, a stark contrast to the life I envisioned. Needing an escape, a place to breathe and rediscover myself, I, Sarah Miller, architect, booked a one-way ticket to Italy. My destination? The Cinque Terre. I was hoping the dramatic cliffs, vibrant villages, and relentless Ligurian sun would somehow mend the cracks in my soul and perhaps, even spark some new design ideas. This solo trip in late September promised adventure, solace, and, hopefully, inspiration.

My journey began in Monterosso al Mare. Stepping off the train, I was immediately engulfed by the organized chaos of arriving tourists and departing locals. The Ligurian sun beat down, a welcome contrast to the cool, sterile environment I’d left behind. A wave of anxiety washed over me - the fear of being alone, of not knowing what to expect. But as I inhaled the salty air, a sense of calm began to settle. This was it. My fresh start.

The train station at Monterosso, my arrival point in the Cinque Terre, buzzed with life. The scent of salt and the warmth of the sun immediately eased my anxieties.

As luck would have it, my arrival coincided with the annual Sciacchetrà wine festival. The entire village was buzzing. Stalls lined the streets, overflowing with local delicacies, and the air was thick with the aroma of fermenting grapes. I joined the throng, purchasing a tasting ticket. Sciacchetrà, the Cinque Terre's famous dessert wine, is a nectar of the gods. Rich, sweet, and intensely flavored, it was a perfect complement to the festive atmosphere. I struck up conversations with locals, their warmth and genuine friendliness instantly putting me at ease. We talked about the harvest, the history of the region, and the resilience of the people who have carved a life out of this rugged landscape.

Finding beauty in the unexpected is what I kept thinking. I hadn't planned on attending a wine festival, but this spontaneous celebration was exactly what I needed – a reminder that life is full of surprises, and not all of them are unpleasant.

Hiking the Sentiero Azzurro: Vernazza to Corniglia

The next day, I decided to tackle a portion of the famed Sentiero Azzurro, specifically segment 2, from Vernazza to Corniglia. The trail is known for its challenging climbs and breathtaking views. And challenging it was! The path wound its way up steep inclines, testing my physical and mental endurance. But with each step, I felt stronger, more determined. The turquoise water glistened below, a constant reminder of the beauty that surrounded me. At one point, I paused at a vista overlooking Guvano Beach, a hidden cove accessible only by boat or a treacherous descent.

The Sentiero Azzurro trail offered spectacular views of the turquoise water. The climb was challenging, but the scenery made it all worthwhile.

The terracotta rooftops of Vernazza contrasted starkly with the deep blue sky, creating a visual masterpiece. As I hiked, my thoughts drifted back to my divorce. The pain was still there, a dull ache in my chest. But as I looked at the rugged coastline, at the way the villages clung to the cliffs, I realized that resilience is built into this landscape. If these villages could withstand the relentless pounding of the waves, I could certainly withstand the storm in my own life.

Reaching Corniglia, the only village not directly on the sea, I found a stone wall overlooking the town. I pulled out my sketchbook and began to capture the intricate details of the Corniglia bell tower, its ancient stones a testament to the enduring spirit of the region.

Coastal Serenity: A Private Boat Tour

Craving a different perspective, I booked a private boat tour along the coast. Being surrounded by the turquoise water was incredibly soothing. The pastel-colored houses of Manarola, clinging precariously to the cliffs, were even more stunning from the sea. Bright bougainvillea cascaded down the walls, adding splashes of vibrant color to the already picturesque scene. We stopped at several secluded coves, and I swam in the crystal-clear water, feeling the weight of my worries wash away with each stroke.

Manarola's pastel buildings, adorned with bright bougainvillea, looked even more spectacular from the sea.

A Culinary Journey: Pesto Making in Manarola

One evening, I signed up for a sunset pesto-making class in Manarola, hosted by a small, family-run establishment. The aroma of Ligurian basil filled the air as we ground the fresh ingredients in a traditional mortar and pestle. The taste of the freshly made pesto was unlike anything I had ever experienced – vibrant, intensely flavorful, and utterly addictive. But what made the experience truly special was the warmth and hospitality of the family. They welcomed me into their home, shared their stories, and made me feel like I was part of their family, if only for a few hours. I sketched their home, captivated by its rustic charm and the obvious love that permeated its walls.

Flavors of the Cinque Terre

Food became an integral part of my healing process. The simple, fresh ingredients of Ligurian cuisine were a constant source of delight. I savored every bite of trofie al pesto, the local pasta perfectly complementing the fragrant basil sauce. The focaccia, with its various regional twists, was a revelation. I especially enjoyed the rosemary focaccia in Riomaggiore. Finding beauty in the unexpected, even in a simple piece of bread, became a daily occurrence. A particularly memorable evening was spent at Ristorante Miky in Monterosso, where I indulged in a grilled seafood platter that showcased the freshest catches of the day. And no trip to Vernazza would be complete without a scoop (or two!) of pistachio gelato from Gelateria Vernazza.

Golden Light and Terraced Vineyards

Everywhere I looked, I found inspiration. The terraced vineyards, clinging to the steep hillsides, were a testament to human ingenuity and perseverance. The way the light changed throughout the day, particularly during the golden hour, was magical. The pastel-colored houses seemed to glow, their warm hues reflecting the setting sun. I spent hours sketching these landscapes, trying to capture the essence of this unique and captivating region.

A New Perspective

My solo trip to the Cinque Terre was more than just a vacation; it was a journey of self-discovery. I came seeking solace and inspiration, and I found both in abundance. The beauty and resilience of the landscape mirrored my own personal journey.

As I prepare to return home, I carry with me a renewed sense of hope and purpose. The terraced landscapes of the Cinque Terre have profoundly influenced my architectural designs. I envision buildings that cascade down hillsides, seamlessly integrating with the natural environment. My goal is to create sustainable spaces that are both beautiful and functional, inspired by the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the people who have shaped this remarkable region.

Finding beauty in the unexpected has become my mantra. It’s a reminder that even in the face of adversity, there is always beauty to be found, new beginnings to embrace, and inspiration to discover. And that, I believe, is the greatest lesson the Cinque Terre has taught me.