Chasing Wax Palms and Coffee Dreams: A Solo Traveler's Guide to Salento, Colombia
Just a few days ago, I stepped off the bus in Salento, Colombia, and was instantly captivated. The vibrant, colonial architecture popped against a backdrop of impossibly green, rolling hills. The air was crisp and clean, a welcome change from city smog, and the rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee hung heavy, promising a delicious adventure. As a freelance photographer in my late 20s specializing in nature and adventure, I knew I'd found a place that would ignite my soul – and my camera. Here’s my guide to experiencing the magic of Salento as a solo traveler.
Conquering the Cocora Valley: A Hiker's Paradise
The Cocora Valley is, without a doubt, the star of Salento. This surreal landscape, dominated by towering wax palms (Colombia's national tree), feels like something straight out of a dream. These majestic trees, some reaching heights of up to 200 feet, pierce the sky, creating an unforgettable panorama.
I opted for the full loop hike, which I highly recommend if you're reasonably fit. The trail winds through pastures, cloud forests, and up some pretty steep inclines, offering diverse perspectives of the valley. One highlight was stopping at Acaime, a hummingbird sanctuary tucked away in the forest. For a small fee of 6,000 COP (approximately $1.50 USD), you can enjoy a cup of hot chocolate with cheese (a surprisingly delicious combination!) while watching dozens of hummingbirds flit around feeders. It’s a truly magical experience.

Cocora Valley Hiking Tips:
- What to Wear: Layers are absolutely essential. The weather in the Cocora Valley can change quickly. Start with a base layer, add a fleece or sweater, and bring a waterproof jacket.
- What to Bring: Plenty of water, snacks, sunscreen, and comfortable hiking shoes are a must. Don't forget your camera!
- Photography Tip: A wide-angle lens is your best friend in the Cocora Valley. It will allow you to capture the scale of the wax palms and the vastness of the landscape. Experiment with different perspectives, especially during the golden hour when the light is soft and the shadows are long. The mist clinging to the hillsides adds an ethereal quality to your photos.
- Altitude: The altitude in the Cocora Valley is around 2,400 meters (7,900 feet). Take it easy on your first day and drink plenty of water. I definitely felt the shortness of breath, especially during the steeper sections of the hike.
From Bean to Cup: Discovering the Art of Coffee at Finca El Ocaso
No trip to Salento is complete without a coffee farm tour. I chose Finca El Ocaso, and it was an incredibly informative and enjoyable experience. For around 20,000 COP (approximately $5 USD), I learned about the entire coffee-making process, from planting and harvesting the beans to roasting and brewing the perfect cup.
We walked through the coffee plantations, marveling at the lush green plants growing on the steep hillsides. Our guide explained the different stages of coffee bean development and the meticulous care required to produce high-quality coffee. We even got to try our hand at picking coffee cherries!
The tour culminated in a coffee tasting. I sampled their specialty arabica coffee, and the aroma alone was intoxicating. The taste was rich, smooth, and slightly sweet, with notes of chocolate and caramel. It was the best cup of coffee I had in Colombia! What surprised me most was the sheer amount of labor involved in producing a single cup of coffee. It gave me a newfound appreciation for the beverage.
Tejo: An Explosive Introduction to Colombian Culture
Looking to experience something uniquely Colombian? Try tejo, the country's traditional sport. I ventured to a local establishment (I can't recall the specific name, but several in Salento offer the game) and joined a group of locals for a round.
Tejo involves throwing a metal puck (the tejo) at a target containing gunpowder packets. The goal is to hit the packets and cause them to explode. The sound of the explosions and the cheers of the other players created an electrifying atmosphere. Even though I was terrible at it, I had an absolute blast. It’s a fantastic way to immerse yourself in the local culture and meet new people.
Savoring Salento: A Culinary Journey
Colombian cuisine is hearty and flavorful, and Salento offers a great introduction to the country's culinary delights.
- Bandeja Paisa: This is the quintessential Colombian dish, and it's not for the faint of heart. It's a massive platter piled high with rice, beans, chicharrón (fried pork belly), ground beef, chorizo, a fried egg, avocado, and arepa. It's a true feast! My overall impression? Delicious but incredibly filling.
- Trucha (Trout): Given Salento's proximity to rivers, trout is a local specialty. I had trucha prepared in garlic butter, and it was incredibly fresh and flavorful.
- Arepas con Queso: These grilled corn cakes filled with cheese are a simple yet satisfying snack. I enjoyed them from a street vendor near the main square, and they were warm, cheesy, and perfect for a quick bite.
- Local Beer: Try a Club Colombia or Aguila beer to wash down your meal. Both are widely available and refreshing.
Rest Your Head: Accommodation Recommendation
I stayed at Coffee Tree Boutique Hostel and highly recommend it. For approximately $20 USD per night for a dorm bed, it offered a clean, comfortable, and social atmosphere. The location was perfect, just a short walk from the main square, and the staff was incredibly friendly and helpful.
Getting There and Getting Around: Travel Tips
- Getting to Salento: The easiest way to get to Salento is by bus from Medellin or Bogota. From Medellin's Terminal del Sur, companies like Flota Occidental offer regular service. The journey takes around 6-7 hours and costs approximately 40,000-50,000 COP (about $10-$12.50 USD).
- Altitude Sickness: As mentioned earlier, Salento is at a high altitude. Drink coca tea, which is readily available, and take it easy on your first day.
- Pack for All Types of Weather: The weather in Salento can be unpredictable. Be prepared for sunshine, rain, and everything in between.
- Currency: The local currency is Colombian Pesos (COP).

Final Thoughts: Salento's Enduring Magic
My time in Salento was nothing short of magical. The breathtaking landscapes, the warm and welcoming people, and the unique experiences I had created memories that will last a lifetime. From hiking amidst the towering wax palms to savoring freshly brewed coffee on a picturesque farm, Salento is a destination that will captivate your senses and leave you wanting more. If you're looking for an adventure that combines nature, culture, and delicious coffee, look no further than Salento, Colombia. I encourage you to visit and experience its magic for yourself. It's a solo traveler's dream!