Apostle Islands Solitude: Kayaking, Camping, and Capturing the Milky Way

The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Even the name whispers of adventure, of untamed beauty, and of the solace found in solitude. As a solo female traveler driven by challenging physical experiences and a deep connection to nature, I knew I had to experience it. My recent 5-day trip to this archipelago in Lake Superior was more than just a vacation; it was a journey into the heart of wilderness, a test of my skills, and an opportunity to capture the celestial wonders that grace the night sky.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sandstone cliffs fiery orange, deep red, and soft pink, a dense fog rolled in – and that's when I heard it. The mournful cry of a loon, echoing across the water, punctuated the silence and marked the beginning of my adventure.

Sea Kayaking the Caves of Sand Island

My journey began on Sand Island, famed for its intricate sea caves sculpted by centuries of wind and waves. I launched my kayak early, eager to beat the crowds and immerse myself in the tranquility of the morning. The turquoise water was surprisingly calm, reflecting the clear blue sky above.

Paddling along the north shore, I soon reached the caves. The red sandstone formations loomed before me, their entrances dark and inviting. The challenge began as I navigated through the narrow passages, the kayak scraping against the rock walls. The air inside was cool and damp, the silence broken only by the drip of water and the splash of my paddle.

I spent nearly three hours exploring the caves, marveling at the sculpted arches, the hidden grottos, and the vibrant colors of the rock. Midday proved to be the best time for photography, as beams of sunlight pierced through openings in the rock, creating dramatic shafts of light that illuminated the turquoise water within. I used my weatherproofed Sony a7 IV with a wide-angle lens (Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM) to capture the grandeur of the caves, carefully adjusting the aperture to f/8 and shutter speed to 1/125 sec to capture the interplay of light and shadow. My GoPro Hero 11 Black came in handy for capturing unique underwater shots, revealing the intricate details of the submerged rock formations.

That evening, back at my campsite, I fired up my Jetboil Flash cooking system and prepared a dehydrated Mountain House Beef Stroganoff. Could anything beat the taste of hot, satisfying food after a long day of paddling? I highly doubt it. The efficiency of the Jetboil allowed me more time to simply relax and soak in the serenity of the island.

Hiking the Lakeshore Trail on Stockton Island

The next day, I packed up my camp and took a water taxi to Stockton Island, the largest of the Apostle Islands. My goal: to hike the Lakeshore Trail, known for its varied landscape and stunning views. The trail proved to be both challenging and rewarding. It snaked through dense boreal forest, where the diffused light filtering through the canopy created an ethereal and calming mood. Then, it opened up to shifting sand dunes, reminiscent of a desert landscape, before finally leading to breathtaking views of Lake Superior.

The solitude of the trail was profound. I encountered only a handful of other hikers throughout the day, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the natural world. The air hung thick with the scent of pine and damp earth, the only sound the gentle lapping of waves against the rocky shore. As the sun began to set, I found a vantage point overlooking the lake and set up my Sony a7 IV with a telephoto lens (Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS). The golden light painted the sky in hues of orange and purple, creating a stunning contrast between the dark forest and the shimmering water. I used an aperture of f/5.6 and a shutter speed of 1/200 sec, adjusting the ISO to maintain a balanced exposure.

Before embarking on my hike, I made a stop at Dreamland Orchards (a fictional farm stand near Bayfield) to stock up on fresh, organic produce. I savored crisp apples, juicy berries, and vibrant kale throughout my trip, incorporating them into simple camp recipes. A kale salad with a simple vinaigrette and oatmeal with berries provided healthy and delicious fuel for my adventures. Supporting local farmers and consuming fresh, seasonal ingredients felt like a responsible and enjoyable way to minimize my impact.

Astrophotography at Julian Bay

My final night was dedicated to capturing the Milky Way over Julian Bay, a pristine beach on Stockton Island renowned for its dark skies. As darkness descended, the stars began to appear, slowly revealing the grandeur of the night sky. I set up my star tracker (Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer) and carefully aligned it with Polaris, the North Star. This device would compensate for the Earth's rotation, allowing me to take long exposure photographs without star trails.

Using my Sony a7 IV and a fast prime lens (Samyang 14mm f/2.8), I began capturing images of the Milky Way. The camera settings were crucial: an aperture of f/2.8, a shutter speed of 120 seconds, and an ISO of 3200. The long exposure allowed me to capture the faint light of distant stars, while the fast aperture let in as much light as possible. The star tracker kept the stars sharp, allowing me to capture incredible detail.

The experience was truly awe-inspiring. The Milky Way stretched across the sky like a faint band of light, punctuated by thousands of stars. The dark dust clouds obscuring the center of the galaxy added depth and mystery to the scene. Even more magical, the calm waters of Julian Bay reflected the stars, creating a surreal and breathtaking spectacle.

Back home, I used Starry Landscape Stacker to create a high dynamic range composite image, stacking multiple exposures to reduce noise and enhance detail. Post-processing involved careful color correction, sharpening, and noise reduction to bring out the full beauty of the Milky Way.

Responsible Travel in the Apostle Islands

The Apostle Islands are a treasure, a pristine wilderness that deserves our utmost respect. Throughout my journey, I was mindful of my impact on the environment, adhering to Leave No Trace principles. I packed out all my trash, stayed on designated trails, and avoided disturbing wildlife. I even used eco-friendly sunscreen and biodegradable soap to minimize my footprint.

Protecting this fragile ecosystem requires a collective effort. By practicing responsible travel habits, we can ensure that future generations will have the opportunity to experience the beauty and solitude of the Apostle Islands.

A Call to Action

The Apostle Islands are calling. Whether you're a seasoned kayaker, a passionate photographer, or simply someone seeking a connection with nature, this archipelago offers an unforgettable experience. But remember, with great beauty comes great responsibility. Visit the Apostle Islands responsibly, minimize your impact, and contribute to their preservation. Let's ensure that this wilderness remains a sanctuary for generations to come.