Apostle Islands Kayaking: A Family Adventure (That Almost Went Sideways!)

The drive was long, punctuated by the persistent "Are we there yet?" chorus from the back seat. But as we crested that final hill and saw the shimmering expanse of Lake Superior under the hazy, late-afternoon sun, I knew we were in for something special... something that almost ended with Ben in the drink. We, the Peterson crew – me, David, the 40-year-old software engineer trying to reconnect with nature (and my family); Sarah, my 38-year-old teacher wife, the level-headed one; Emily, our sharp-witted 12-year-old; and Ben, our rambunctious 8-year-old dynamo – were ready to tackle the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore in Wisconsin. Little did we know, the islands had a few surprises in store for us.

A stunning sunset view of the Apostle Islands, hinting at the beauty and challenges that awaited our family during our kayaking adventure.

Day 1: Arrival and Initial Awe (plus a near-capsizing)

After checking into our cozy Bayfield cabin, we headed straight to the outfitter. The kids, buzzing with a mix of excitement and apprehension, peppered the poor guide with questions: "How far will we paddle?" "Are there sharks?" (Eye roll from Sarah). "What if I fall in?" As we got fitted for our kayaks and paddles, I could feel their nervous energy palpable. I tried to project confidence, but the truth was, I hadn't been in a kayak in years.

Our initial paddle out to a nearby island was breathtaking. The water was so clear; you could see every pebble on the lakebed below. But that clarity quickly turned ominous when a rogue wave threatened to send us all swimming. We were gliding along, admiring the turquoise water, when the sky darkened, and a sudden squall blew in seemingly out of nowhere. Rain lashed at our faces, and the calm water turned choppy in seconds. And then it happened: a wave crashed over the side of our tandem kayak, swamping it and sending us lurching precariously. Emily, who was in the front of our kayak, let out a terrified scream.

Turns out, I hadn't properly secured the spray skirt – that waterproof barrier that keeps water out of the kayak’s cockpit. Rookie mistake. Water poured in, and the kayak became increasingly unstable. Frantic paddling ensued. I yelled instructions (or what I hoped were instructions) to Emily, while Sarah, in her own single kayak, paddled furiously to stay close. Ben, thankfully, was oblivious to the danger, too busy splashing water with his paddle. After what felt like an eternity (probably only five minutes), we managed to bail out enough water to regain some stability and paddle towards a small, sheltered cove. We limped to shore, shaken but safe. Later, we'd laugh about Emily's dramatic screams, but in the moment, it was anything but funny. We secured the spray skirt properly this time.

That night, as the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in fiery oranges and purples, we felt like we'd conquered something... even if it was just our fear. We ate dinner on the beach, the sound of the waves a soothing balm to our frazzled nerves.

Day 2: Sea Caves and Freeze-Dried Misery (plus getting lost in fog)

The early morning light on the Apostle Islands is something special. It illuminates the unique rock formations, carved by centuries of waves, in a way that makes you feel like you’re witnessing something ancient and powerful. It was a perfect day to explore the famous sea caves.

Kayakers exploring the Apostle Islands sea caves. Imagine the echoes! But also imagine getting stuck there!

Paddling into those dark, echoing caves felt like entering another world, a world that nearly became our tomb when the fog rolled in. The acoustics were incredible; every drip of water, every paddle stroke, echoed through the chambers. It was both awe-inspiring and slightly unnerving.

Then came breakfast. A culinary abomination. Mountain House Biscuits and Gravy from a bag that tasted vaguely like cardboard. The kids, surprisingly, devoured it. Sarah and I choked it down, washed down with lukewarm coffee. But hey, it filled our bellies, even if it briefly dampened our spirits... which the fog was happy to take over completely.

We exited the caves, and suddenly, we were surrounded by a thick, impenetrable fog. Visibility was reduced to maybe ten feet. Disoriented and unable to see the shoreline, panic started to set in. We had no idea which direction to paddle. The feeling of isolation was intense. We started yelling to each other, just to make sure we were still together. Luckily, I had downloaded a GPS app on my phone before the trip, but I wasn't sure if it would work out here, and even worse, I hadn’t bothered to practice using it. Fumbling with the app, and after what seemed like an eternity of swiping and squinting at the tiny screen, I managed to get a fix on our location and chart a course back to our intended campsite. Turns out, we had drifted quite a ways off course.

We finally arrived at our campsite on a remote island, exhausted and relieved. Setting up camp was a welcome distraction. The island was small and uninhabited, save for a few curious seagulls. As we pitched our tents and started a fire, a sense of peace settled over us. We were alone in nature, far from the stresses of everyday life.

Day 3: The Catch of the Day and a Bear Encounter (plus encountering a bear)

The pristine morning light on the island was magical. The only sounds were the gentle lapping of the waves and the calls of the gulls. After our near-disaster the previous day, we were determined to have a more relaxing day. I decided to try my luck at fishing. I’d heard stories of Lake Trout the size of toddlers lurking beneath the surface.

After the fog, our luck changed, and that day, we got one, but something else got it first. After what felt like hours, I finally felt a tug on my line. After a tense battle, I reeled in a beautiful lake trout. The kids were ecstatic. Visions of a delicious fresh fish dinner danced in our heads.

That night, we feasted on freshly caught lake trout, its flaky flesh melting in our mouths. It was a far cry from yesterday's astronaut food, a reminder of what real food is, unlike what came next…

We were enjoying our dinner when we heard a rustling in the bushes. It was a black bear, drawn by the smell of our fish. Sarah grabbed the bear spray, Ben started crying, and Emily froze. In that moment, I genuinely thought we were going to become bear snacks. I yelled and waved my arms, trying to appear larger than I actually am (not very large). After a few tense minutes, the bear lumbered off, leaving us shaken but alive, and with a new appreciation for the food we had. I guess we hadn’t been so alone on the island after all.

That night, under the vast expanse of the night sky, we witnessed the aurora borealis, a breathtaking display of green and purple light dancing across the heavens. It was a magical moment that made all the near-disasters worthwhile. If we weren’t staring at the sky, we might have thought we were hallucinating all of the chaos around us.

Day 4: Paddle Back and Reflections (lessons learned)

A family sea kayaking, similar to ours, returning to the mainland from their Apostle Islands adventure. We were all reflecting on how much we'd learned during our trip!

The final paddle back to the mainland was bittersweet. We were tired, sore, and ready for a hot shower, but we were also sad to see our adventure come to an end. As we paddled, I reflected on everything we had experienced over the past four days. We had faced challenges, overcome fears, and created memories that would last a lifetime.

Here are a few specific lessons we learned:

• Always double-check the weather forecast and be prepared for sudden changes. Fog can roll in quickly on Lake Superior.
• Invest in a reliable GPS device and learn how to use it. Don't rely solely on cell phone service.
• Bear spray is a must-have in bear country. Practice using it beforehand.
• Freeze-dried food is convenient, but nothing beats fresh-caught lake trout.
• Even near-disasters can become cherished memories.

The Apostle Islands sea kayaking trip was the adventure of a lifetime. Yes, there were moments of fear and frustration, but those moments were ultimately overshadowed by the beauty, the challenge, and the shared experience. If you're looking for an unforgettable family adventure, this is it. Come to the Apostle Islands… but be prepared for anything. Check out vistalocation.com to book your own Apostle Islands adventure today!